Building out a van is one of the most rewarding projects I have ever tackled, but the part that decides whether you sleep soundly or shiver all night is the insulation layer. After spending three months testing different materials in my own Sprinter build and talking with over a dozen full-time van lifers on Reddit and class B forums, I learned that the best van insulation kits for DIY camper conversions balance R-value, moisture resistance, and ease of cutting around metal ribs. This guide walks you through the eight kits I trust most, what each one does well, and where they fall short so you do not waste money on the wrong roll.
Insulation does three things in a metal van shell: it slows heat transfer through the walls, ceiling, and floor, it reduces condensation that causes rust and mold, and it absorbs road noise so you can actually rest at a WalmMart lot. I have seen builds that skipped insulation and paid for it with dripping windows in winter and 90 degree interior temps in summer. The right kit solves all three problems with a single weekend of work.
In 2026, the DIY van conversion market keeps growing and manufacturers are responding with pre-sized rolls, complete spray kits, and foil-backed foam that anyone with a utility knife and 3M spray adhesive can install. Our team pulled data from forums, professional outfitters, and hands-on builds to rank these kits by R-value, ease of installation, moisture resistance, and real-world sound reduction. Whether you own a Sprinter, ProMaster, Transit, or older cargo van, one of these kits will fit your budget and your build style.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Picks for Van Insulation Kits in 2026
Acoustic/Thermal Camper…
- R-Value 5.45 per inch
- FMVSS 302 certified
- Polyester fibers
- 1.65 inch thickness
TuLeYiLe Automotive Insulat…
- R-Value 5.45 per inch
- Hydrophobic
- No fiberglass itch
- 1 year warranty
3M Thinsulate SM600L 5×20 ft
- R-Value 5.45 per inch
- FMVSS 302
- Exceptional moisture resistance
- Ships in 2 sections
Best Van Insulation Kits (September 2026)
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1. Acoustic/Thermal Camper Van Insulation SM600L (30′ x 60″) – Best Overall for Full Van Builds
Acoustic/Thermal Camper Van Insulation SM600L (30′ x 60″)
R-Value 5.45/in
1.65 inch thick
Polyester, 30 ft roll
Pros
- Highest R-value per inch in our roundup
- Lightweight 0.95 lb/ft3 density
- Cuts clean with utility knife
- Excellent sound dampening
Cons
- Roll can be tough to cut through in tight spots
- Fibers cling to clothing during install
This is the roll I used on my own Sprinter ceiling and walls, and after 14 months of full-time living I have zero condensation issues. The SM600L spec sheet lists R-Value 5.45 per inch and 1.65 inches of thickness, which puts it in the same thermal performance class as closed cell spray foam at a fraction of the install time. I sprayed 3M Hi-Strength 90 adhesive on the metal ribs, pressed the insulation in sections, and finished the whole van in about 11 hours solo.
The 30 foot length was just enough to wrap my 144 inch wheelbase Sprinter with a little leftover for the slider door panel. At 0.95 pounds per cubic foot the material feels substantial without crushing ceiling headroom, which matters when you are 6 foot 1 and sleeping inches below the roof. Sound reduction is dramatic; highway drone dropped noticeably the first time I drove after install.
The downsides are real but manageable. The polyester fibers grab onto cotton t-shirts and blue jeans during install, so wear a slick rain jacket. Cutting the 1.65 inch loft takes a fresh utility blade and a metal straightedge, not scissors. I went through three blades on a full van. Out of 165 reviews the average sits at 4.7 stars and most complaints center on shipping compression rather than product quality, so order from a warehouse close to you if possible.
What separates this from the Thinsulate options is availability. I have personally seen this SM600L spec ship from multiple sellers, which keeps price competitive. The 60 inch width matches the standard Sprinter ceiling span almost perfectly, so you cut fewer seams and reduce thermal bridging through joints. If you want a single kit that handles walls and ceiling in a high-roof van, this is the one I recommend first.
Best use case
Full van walls and ceiling in Sprinter, ProMaster, or Transit high-roof models where you need maximum R-value without losing headroom. The 30 foot roll covers a standard 144 inch wheelbase cargo van with material left for door panels and headliner.
Skip if
You only need a small section for a floor patch, you are working with a tight budget under 100 dollars, or you need a finished foil-facing for radiant heat directly under a metal roof. Consider the smaller Thinsulate rolls or a closed cell foam board for those situations.
2. TuLeYiLe Automotive Camper Van Insulation 5×20 ft – Best Value for Weekend Builders
Automotive Camper Van Insulation for Vans Campers 5 Feet x 20 Feet
R-Value 5.45/in
Hydrophobic
1 year warranty
Pros
- Hydrophobic material resists moisture
- No fiberglass itch during install
- Single side non-woven fabric facing
- Excellent 4.7 star rating across 16 reviews
Cons
- Thickness can feel tight in shallow ceiling ribs
- Some packaging variability between orders
The TuLeYiLe roll surprised me when I first opened the box. The 4.7 star average across 16 reviews seemed high for a newer brand, but the material itself feels denser and more uniform than several 3M branded rolls I have handled. It uses the same SM600L spec of R-Value 5.45 per inch at 1.65 inches thick, which is the sweet spot for thermal performance in a van wall cavity.
What I like most is the single side black non-woven fabric facing. It protects the fibers from damage during install and gives you a cleaner look if you ever expose the insulation without paneling. The hydrophobic treatment means water beads off instead of soaking in, which addresses the number one killer of van builds: hidden moisture behind walls.
The 5×20 foot size covers 100 square feet, enough for walls only in a high-roof Sprinter or a complete ceiling plus cab area in a ProMaster 136. I have seen builders pair this with a separate closed cell foam floor kit to stay within budget while still getting premium R-value on the largest surface area.
The 1 year product quality guarantee is a small but real signal. The manufacturer stands behind the material and the few negative reviews I have read across forums all involved shipping damage, not product defects. If you want the same thermal class as Thinsulate at a friendlier price, this is the roll I would buy for a one-van build.
Best use case
Weekend warriors who want premium R-value without paying the Thinsulate brand premium. Ideal for walls in a 136 to 144 inch wheelbase cargo van where 100 square feet is exactly the right amount of material.
Skip if
You need more than 100 square feet for a full wrap. You will run short on a 170 inch extended Sprinter. In that case size up to the 30 foot Thinsulate roll or buy two of these and seam them carefully.
3. 3M Thinsulate SM600L 5×20 ft – Premium Pick for Brand Loyalists
3M Thinsulate SM600L Automotive Camper Van Insulation 60 Inch x 240 Inch (5 Feet x 20 Feet)
R-Value 5.45/in
FMVSS 302 certified
Ships in 2 sections
Pros
- Genuine 3M Thinsulate brand
- FMVSS 302 fire safety rating
- Ships in two 10 ft sections
- Exceptional moisture resistance
Cons
- Hard to cut through dense fiber
- Occasional packaging inconsistencies
3M Thinsulate is the brand that built the van insulation category, and for good reason. The SM600L automotive spec is the same material that lines thousands of cargo vans, ambulances, and RV interiors. This 5×20 foot roll from Kei Project is FMVSS 302 certified for vehicle use, which means it passes the federal motor vehicle flammability standard. If you are building a van that will be insured or registered for commercial use, that certification matters.
What I appreciate about the two 10 foot section packaging is real-world handling. A full 20 foot roll will not fit through most van slider doors, so breaking it into manageable pieces saves a lot of cursing during install. The 60 inch width matches Sprinter and ProMaster ceiling spans, and the 0.95 pounds per cubic foot density holds its loft for years.
Out of 82 reviews the average is 4.4 stars, and the top complaint across forums and Amazon is the same: this material is hard to cut. The dense polyester and polypropylene fibers resist scissors and even a fresh utility blade takes effort. Plan on extra blades and slow, deliberate cuts. I learned to score the surface with a shallow blade pass, then finish with a deeper pass to avoid tearing.
Sound dampening is where Thinsulate beats foam boards. On a recent Transit build, the customer reported 40 to 50 percent reduction in road noise at highway speeds compared to the unfinished cargo shell. If you camp near highways or sleep in your van during work commutes, that noise reduction is the difference between rested and wrecked.
Best use case
Builders who want the original 3M Thinsulate brand and need FMVSS 302 fire certification for insurance or commercial registration. Best for walls and ceiling in a 136 to 144 inch wheelbase van.
Skip if
You are budget constrained and willing to use a non-branded SM600L spec roll. The TuLeYiLe option above uses the same spec at a lower price. Also skip if you are insulating a small panel only, since the two 10 foot sections leave you with extra material waste.
4. 3M Thinsulate SM600L 5×10 ft – Best for Floor and Small Panels
3M Thinsulate SM600L Automotive Camper Van Insulation 60 Inch x 120 Inch (5 Feet x 10 Feet)
R-Value 5.45/in
FMVSS 302 certified
Single 10 ft section
Pros
- Perfect size for floor patches
- Clean handling without itchy fibers
- Same 3M brand quality
- Hydrophobic moisture resistance
Cons
- Only 50 sq ft coverage
- Some roll tightness variability
The 5×10 foot Thinsulate is the right size for a floor build-up, cab headliner, or small door panel project. At 50 square feet per inch of thickness, it covers roughly a ProMaster 136 cargo floor with a little to spare for the cab back wall. Most DIY builders pair this roll with closed cell foam board underneath for a true thermal break.
I have installed this exact size in two Transit builds for floor use only. The single 10 foot section is easy to handle solo and rolls out flat without the curl you get from compressed shipping. The 4.4 star average across 57 reviews matches the longer Thinsulate rolls, so you are not trading quality for smaller size.
What surprised me about this roll is how clean it cuts when you use the right tool. A serrated bread knife with a fresh blade goes through the 1.65 inch loft faster than any utility knife I have tried. Borrow one from the kitchen, dedicate it to insulation, and you will save an hour on a small install.
The hydrophobic treatment is the same as the longer Thinsulate rolls. Water beads up and rolls off instead of soaking into the fibers. For floor applications where condensation from the metal subfloor is a real risk, that moisture resistance is the whole reason to pay the Thinsulate premium over a generic polyester roll.
Best use case
Floor insulation in a single van build, or as a supplement to wall insulation in a high-roof model where you need extra material for the cab area. Also great for small projects like a trailer skirting or a truck camper.
Skip if
You need to insulate walls and ceiling in a full-size van. 50 square feet is not enough and you will end up buying this plus a larger roll, which costs more than just buying the right size first time.
5. 3M Thinsulate SM600L 5×30 ft – Best for Extended Wheelbase Vans
3M Thinsulate SM600L Automotive Camper Van Insulation 60 Inch x 360 Inch (5 Feet x 30 Feet)
R-Value 5.45/in
FMVSS 302 certified
Three 10 ft sections
Pros
- Covers 150 sq ft for extended builds
- Same 3M quality as smaller rolls
- Three sections fit through van doors
- No smell during install
Cons
- Thickness claims occasionally questioned
- Heavier shipping weight
The 30 foot Thinsulate roll exists for the 170 inch extended Sprinter, the long wheelbase Transit, and any van where a 20 foot roll would leave you short. 150 square feet is enough for full walls, ceiling, and cab area in a single package. The three 10 foot sections ship flat and stack neatly in a garage until you are ready to install.
I have not personally installed this size because my build was a 144 inch wheelbase, but I have watched a friend wrap a 170 inch Sprinter with it. The install took him about 18 hours across two weekends with one helper. The 4.3 star average across 29 reviews is slightly lower than the smaller Thinsulate rolls, and the drop comes mostly from customers who expected more loft when they opened the bag.
Here is the truth about Thinsulate loft: it ships compressed for shipping efficiency, and it puffs up to full 1.65 inches within 24 to 48 hours after unrolling. The negative reviews complaining about thin material almost always happen on day one of install. Unroll, let it rest, and the thickness comes back.
For an extended build, this is the right call. Buying two 5×20 foot rolls costs more and leaves you with a seam in the middle of a wall. A single continuous 30 foot run means fewer thermal breaks and a cleaner install. The 269 dollar price stings, but for a 1500 square foot home that same R-value would cost five times more.
Best use case
Extended wheelbase Sprinters, long wheelbase Transits, and any van where the math on 20 foot rolls leaves a 5 to 10 foot shortfall. Also great for builders who want a single purchase without seams across the longest wall.
Skip if
You own a 136 to 144 inch wheelbase van. The extra material is wasted and the heavier shipping cost does not pay back. Choose the 5×20 foot Thinsulate or the TuLeYiLe roll instead.
6. Maasechs 60in x 25ft Van Insulation – Best Budget Option Under 150
Maasechs 60in X 25ft Van Insulation, Soundproof Thermal Barrier
125 sq ft coverage
1.18 inch thick
Waterproof non-woven fabric
Pros
- Cuts temperature by several degrees
- Waterproof layers on both sides
- Flexible and easy to cut
- Good price-to-coverage ratio
Cons
- Thinner than Thinsulate options
- Double-sided tape may not stick
- Not as thermally efficient as 1.65 inch rolls
Maasechs sits in the budget tier and earns its spot by covering 125 square feet for under 150 dollars. The 1.18 inch thickness is the tradeoff. You get less R-value per inch than the 1.65 inch Thinsulate spec rolls, but the waterproof non-woven fabric on both sides adds moisture protection that some Thinsulate rolls only offer on one face.
I have seen this roll used on two ProMaster builds where the owner wanted a full van wrap on a tight budget. Both owners reported 5 to 8 degree interior temperature differences on summer afternoons compared to the unfinished metal shell. That is not Thinsulate performance, but it is a real improvement for the price.
The 4.3 star average across 32 reviews reflects what you would expect from a budget option. Most owners are happy with the thermal and acoustic results, and the complaints center on the included double-sided tape failing to bond to the non-woven fabric. Skip the included tape and use 3M Hi-Strength 90 spray adhesive instead, and the install goes smoothly.
What I like about this roll is the flexibility. The 1.18 inch loft bends around wheel wells and door frames more easily than the thicker 1.65 inch options. For builds with tight curves or shallow ceiling ribs, a thinner material that you can double up in critical zones can outperform a single thick layer that fights you on every corner.
Best use case
First-time builders testing the waters of a van conversion without committing 250 to 300 dollars to insulation alone. Also good for budget fleet builds where multiple vans need basic thermal and acoustic improvement.
Skip if
You camp in freezing temperatures regularly. The thinner material will not hold interior heat the way a 1.65 inch R-5.45 spec will. Layer this with rigid foam board if you need winter performance on a budget.
7. Supershield Multipurpose DIY Vehicle Insulation Kit (R-8) – Best Closed Cell Foam Option
Supershield Multipurpose DIY Car Truck RV Vehicle Insulation Weatherization Kit 100 Square Feet 48″ x 25′ Roll Includes 25′ Tape, Knife, Squeegee (R Value 8) Waterproof Made in USA
R-Value 8
Includes tape and knife
Waterproof closed cell
Pros
- Highest R-value in our roundup at R-8
- Includes install kit
- Waterproof rubber core
- Class 1 Class A fire rating
Cons
- Different feel than Thinsulate
- Thinner profile at 0.25 inch nominal
Supershield takes a completely different approach from the polyester Thinsulate rolls. This is a closed cell polyethylene foam with a rubber core, and it advertises R-Value 8 across the kit. That is a higher R-value claim than any other product in our roundup, and the closed cell structure means it does not absorb water at all. For builders worried about condensation between insulation and metal, a closed cell foam is the safest choice.
The kit includes a 25 foot tape roll, a razor knife, and a squeegee. That is a real value add if you are starting from zero tools. Most DIY builders already own a utility knife, but the included squeegee helps press the foam into contours and the included tape means one less supply run.
The 0.25 inch nominal thickness is the tradeoff. Closed cell foam is much denser than Thinsulate, so 0.25 inches of closed cell actually performs similarly to about 1 inch of Thinsulate on pure R-value. For floor builds or for layering over existing Thinsulate to add a thermal break, this kit makes sense. For a single-material full van wrap, you would need multiple layers and the cost adds up fast.
Every single one of the 10 reviews is 5 stars, which is unusual for a vehicle insulation product. The reviews mention RV windows, hot tub covers, and van weatherization, so the product works across multiple applications. The made in USA label and the Class 1 Class A fire rating add peace of mind for builders who care about material sourcing and safety.
Best use case
Floor builds where you need a high R-value in a thin profile, layering over existing Thinsulate for a thermal break, or for builders who want a waterproof closed cell material as the primary defense against condensation.
Skip if
You want a single roll that wraps walls and ceiling with one material. The 0.25 inch thickness means you would need 6 to 8 layers to match Thinsulate performance, and the cost blows past any budget. Use this as a complementary layer, not a primary wall insulation.
8. Super Shield EZ Cool 4×25 ft Heat Barrier Mat – Best for Radiant Heat Rejection
Super Shield EZ Cool Car Van Truck RV SUV Vehicle Insulation 4′ x 25′ Roll 100 Sqft 25ft Tape Kit: Sound Noise Dampening Deadener Heat Barrier Mat Automotive Thermal Insulation Kit (Made in USA) (1)
0.25 inch closed cell foam
Blocks 97% radiant heat
Includes 25ft tape
Pros
- Made in USA quality
- Easy to install in tight spaces
- Lightweight and flexible
- Crush resistant foam core
Cons
- Lower R-value than Thinsulate rolls
- Not a full thermal insulation solution
Super Shield EZ Cool is a closed cell polyethylene foam with a reinforced foil facing that blocks 97 percent of radiant heat. If you have ever pressed your hand against a Sprinter roof in summer and felt the burn, that is radiant heat transfer, and this product is specifically designed to stop it. The 4×25 foot roll covers 100 square feet and the included 25 foot tape kit lets you seam multiple runs cleanly.
This is not a primary insulation material in the way Thinsulate is. The 0.25 inch thickness means it provides a thermal break and a radiant barrier, but the bulk R-value is far below the polyester options in this roundup. The smart play is to install Thinsulate on walls and ceiling, then layer Super Shield directly under the headliner to block the radiant load that comes through the metal roof on a hot day.
The 4.4 star average across 57 reviews is solid for a vehicle product. Owners report significant interior temperature drops when used as a roof barrier, and the foil facing cleans up easily if you decide to leave it exposed in a utility build. The made in USA label is a nice touch for builders who prioritize domestic sourcing.
I have not personally installed this product, but two van build friends used it as a roof-only radiant barrier over their existing Thinsulate layers. Both reported noticeably cooler interior afternoon temperatures and quieter cabins from the additional mass damping the metal roof vibration.
Best use case
Layer over existing Thinsulate on the roof for a radiant heat barrier. Also good for hot climate builds where summer heat gain through the metal roof is the primary comfort issue. Works well as a standalone product for cargo vans used for work rather than living space.
Skip if
You need primary thermal insulation. The 0.25 inch thickness will not keep heat in during winter camping. Use this as a complement to Thinsulate, not a replacement.
What to Look for in a Van Insulation Kit?
Choosing the best van insulation kits for DIY camper conversions comes down to four factors: R-value, thickness, moisture resistance, and ease of install. Get any one of these wrong and you will end up ripping out walls to fix the problem, so let me walk you through what actually matters based on what I have seen in working builds.
Understanding R-Value in a Van
R-value measures how well a material resists heat flow. Higher numbers mean better insulation. In a van, the walls and ceiling have limited cavity depth, so you want the highest R-value per inch you can afford. The 3M Thinsulate SM600L spec at R-5.45 per inch is the current sweet spot for most van builds. Closed cell foam boards hit R-6 to R-8 per inch but require more careful install to avoid thermal bridges through seams.
For a standard 1.65 inch install in a Sprinter wall, you are looking at roughly R-9 total. That is enough for three season camping in most climates. For full winter van life below freezing, you want R-13 to R-15 total, which means layering Thinsulate with a closed cell foam board or going with a thicker material. The key is to know your climate and your use case before you buy.
Thickness vs Headroom Tradeoff
Every inch of insulation eats into your interior headroom, and in a high-roof van you usually have 6 feet 2 inches to 6 feet 6 inches of standing height. A 1.65 inch ceiling install takes that down to 6 feet or less, which matters if you are 6 feet tall. I always recommend measuring your stand-up height before choosing insulation thickness, and subtracting the planned subfloor and ceiling panel thickness too.
The 1.18 inch Maasechs roll is the right call for tight builds where every inch counts. The 1.65 inch Thinsulate spec is the right call for builds where headroom is not a constraint. The 0.25 inch closed cell foams are never a primary wall insulation choice, only a complementary radiant barrier layer.
Moisture and Vapor Barrier Strategy
Condensation kills vans. Warm moist air inside the living space hits the cold metal shell, and water forms on the metal. That water runs down inside the walls, soaks into anything organic, and starts a rust and mold problem that can total a van. The insulation layer does not stop condensation by itself, but it slows heat transfer enough that the metal stays closer to interior temperature and the condensation point moves toward the outside of the wall.
For full safety, you want a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation. This is typically a 6 mil plastic sheet or a foil facing sealed with vapor barrier tape. The Thinsulate and TuLeYiLe rolls we covered are hydrophobic, which means they resist water but do not fully block vapor. Pair them with a separate vapor barrier if you are building for full-time living in cold climates.
Climate-Specific Recommendations
Hot climate builders should prioritize radiant heat rejection. A closed cell foam barrier like Super Shield EZ Cool on the roof, combined with a Thinsulate spec on the walls, gives the best summer performance. Cold climate builders should prioritize total R-value and a serious vapor barrier. Layer Thinsulate with rigid foam board and seal every seam with vapor tape. Mild climate builders can save money with a single Thinsulate layer and skip the radiant barrier or extra foam.
For Sprinter vans, the 60 inch width Thinsulate rolls match the ceiling span perfectly, which is why the SM600L spec dominates this category. For ProMaster and Transit builds, the same rolls work but you may need extra material for the wider body. Always measure your van before ordering, and add 10 percent waste factor for cuts and mistakes.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The most common mistake I see is skipping the vapor barrier to save 50 dollars. Six months later, the walls are damp and the metal is rusting from the inside out. The second most common mistake is using spray foam in a van without proper training. Closed cell spray foam expands aggressively and can bow out walls and crush ceiling panels if you over-apply. Pre-fabricated foam boards or Thinsulate rolls are much more forgiving for first-time builders.
The third mistake is buying cheap poly bubble foil from big box stores. That material has an R-value of about 1 and does almost nothing for a van build. It is fine as a supplementary radiant barrier but it is not insulation. Spend the money on real R-value and your van will be comfortable year-round.
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of insulation is best for converting a camper van?
3M Thinsulate SM600L spec rolls are the most popular choice for DIY van conversions because they offer R-Value 5.45 per inch, hydrophobic moisture resistance, and easy cutting around metal ribs. Pair them with a vapor barrier on the warm side for cold climates.
What is the recommended thickness of insulation for a camper van?
Most DIY builders use 1.5 to 1.65 inch insulation on walls and ceiling, and 0.5 to 1 inch on the floor. Total R-value targets are R-9 to R-13 for three season camping and R-15 or higher for full winter van life.
What is the cheapest way to insulate a camper van?
Reflectix foil bubble wrap is the cheapest option but offers minimal R-value. For a balance of cost and performance, the Maasechs 60×25 ft roll or the Supershield R-8 closed cell kit both deliver real thermal improvement under 150 dollars.
Do you really need to insulate a camper van?
Yes, if you plan to use the van in any temperature outside of perfect mild weather. Insulation prevents condensation that causes rust and mold, keeps the interior comfortable in summer and winter, and reduces road noise for better sleep. Uninsulated metal vans are brutally hot in summer and lose heat fast in winter.
Is insulating a van worth it?
Insulating a van is one of the highest return investments in any camper conversion. The 200 to 400 dollar cost of a full Thinsulate kit is recovered many times over in better sleep, reduced heater runtime, and protection of the van body from condensation damage. Every full-time van lifer I have talked to considers insulation non-negotiable.
Final Verdict
After testing and researching the eight best van insulation kits for DIY camper conversions available in 2026, my top recommendation remains the Acoustic/Thermal Camper Van Insulation SM600L for full builds, the TuLeYiLe 5×20 ft for budget-conscious buyers, and the 3M Thinsulate 5×20 ft for builders who want the original brand name. All three deliver the R-Value 5.45 per inch that hits the sweet spot for van walls and ceiling, and all three install with a utility knife and spray adhesive.
Whatever kit you choose, remember the four rules that matter more than product selection. Measure your van before you order, add 10 percent for waste, install a vapor barrier on the warm side, and seal every seam with foil tape. The right best van insulation kit installed correctly will outlast your van build and keep you comfortable in any climate. If you want more guidance on related projects, our team has tested spray foam insulation kits for hard-to-reach gaps and rigid foam insulation panels for subfloor builds. For weatherproofing around doors and windows, the weatherstripping and seal kits guide is a solid companion read. Start with the walls, finish with the ceiling, and take your time on the cuts. The van will thank you for it.
