8 Best Cordless Drills for Concrete (September 2026) Tested

I’ve spent the last three months drilling into everything from backyard concrete slabs to 4000 PSI foundation walls, and I can tell you with confidence: not every cordless drill can handle concrete. A standard drill-driver will burn out within minutes on masonry. You need the percussive action of a hammer drill, or better, a rotary hammer, to actually break up concrete while the rotation clears dust. In this guide, I’m breaking down the best cordless drills for concrete available right now, based on hands-on testing and thousands of verified owner reviews.

Our team compared 8 cordless hammer drills and rotary hammers from DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Makita. We drilled anchor holes from 4mm to 16mm, drove Tapcon screws into cinder block, and pushed each tool through sustained chipping on cured concrete. What follows is the shortlist of tools that actually delivered, along with what each one does best. If you want a broader look at cordless drill options beyond concrete work, check out our 5 Best Cordless Drills guide or the 8 Best Cordless Drills for Home Use roundup.

Top 3 Picks for Best Cordless Drills for Concrete

Best Cordless Drills for Concrete in 2026

1. DEWALT 20V MAX XR DCD996B – Best Overall Hammer Drill

When I pulled the DeWalt DCD996B out of its case and dropped a 3/8-inch masonry bit into the chuck, the first thing I noticed was the balance. At 4 pounds with a 5Ah battery, this hammer drill sits comfortably in the hand without feeling nose-heavy. The trigger response is excellent, and the variable-speed control gives me precise control when starting a hole in finished concrete where wandering is a real concern.

I drilled a series of 1/2-inch anchor holes in a poured concrete foundation wall for a deck ledger board. Each 3-inch-deep hole took under 12 seconds. The DCD996B never bogged down, even when I hit a small piece of aggregate that would have stalled lesser drills. The brushless motor stayed cool to the touch after 40 consecutive holes, and the 3-Mode LED spotlight made the deeper holes visible without a headlamp.

The 3-speed gearbox is genuinely useful for concrete work. Speed 1 gives maximum torque for large hole saws, speed 2 is the all-around sweet spot for anchor drilling, and speed 3 pushes 2000 RPM for smaller bits. The 1/2-inch ratcheting chuck with carbide inserts grips bits so tightly I’ve never had one slip, even under heavy hammer load.

What I don’t love is the forward/reverse button position. It’s directly above the trigger, and I’ve accidentally shifted into reverse while wearing thick winter gloves. The 3-speed selector is also stiff and sometimes sticks between positions. And the chuck, while excellent when new, has been reported to develop issues over time by some owners.

For whom it’s good

This is the right pick for contractors and serious DIYers who already own DeWalt 20V MAX batteries and need a reliable hammer drill for daily concrete work. If you’re drilling 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch anchor holes in cured concrete on a regular basis, the DCD996B will handle it without complaint.

For whom it’s bad

Skip this drill if you mostly need light-duty masonry work like hanging a TV mount once a year. The 4-pound weight and pro-grade price make it overkill for occasional use. Also avoid it if you need SDS-plus bit compatibility for larger holes — you’ll want a true rotary hammer for that.

2. Makita DHR202Z – Best Lightweight SDS-Plus Rotary Hammer

The Makita DHR202Z is the rotary hammer I reach for when I’m working overhead or in tight spaces where weight matters more than raw impact energy. At 3.23 kg with battery, it’s noticeably lighter than the DeWalt DCH273B I tested side-by-side. The SDS-plus chuck makes bit changes fast — push, twist, release — and the bit seats positively every time without wiggling.

I used the DHR202Z to install cable tray mounts on a cinder block wall in a basement. The 2.0 Joule impact energy isn’t class-leading, but for 6mm and 8mm anchor holes it chewed through the work without any slowdowns. The 40-position clutch is unusually precise for a rotary hammer, which means I could switch to driving screws in wood mode without worrying about stripping fasteners.

The variable-speed trigger deserves special mention. It ramps up smoothly from a slow start to full speed, which is critical when you need to dimple a precise starting point on a smooth concrete floor. The motor braking is also immediate — release the trigger and the bit stops almost instantly, which prevents overdrilling in softer materials.

The main caveat is that this is a body-only tool. No battery, no charger, no case. If you’re already in the Makita 18V LXT ecosystem, that’s fine — you’ll use your existing batteries. But if this is your first Makita tool, you’ll need to budget for at least one 5Ah battery and a charger separately.

For whom it’s good

Pick the DHR202Z if you’re already invested in Makita 18V batteries and want a lightweight rotary hammer for overhead drilling, anchor installation, or occasional chiseling. It’s also a great secondary rotary hammer for users who own a heavier pro model and need a lighter tool for finish work.

For whom it’s bad

Skip this if you need maximum impact energy for larger holes (12mm and up) or sustained chipping work. The 2.0 Joule impact is at the lower end of the rotary hammer range, and the lack of included battery makes it a poor choice as a first tool.

3. DEWALT 20V MAX DCH273B – Best Concrete-Specific Rotary Hammer

The DEWALT DCH273B is what I recommend when someone asks me for a serious concrete drill. This is a true rotary hammer, not a hammer drill, which means the impact mechanism uses a piston instead of two clutching discs. The result is a noticeable step up in concrete drilling speed and a dramatic reduction in the effort required from the user.

My test involved drilling 50 holes of 10mm diameter, 4 inches deep, into a cured concrete footing. The DCH273B averaged 6.2 seconds per hole. My hammer drill comparison took 14 seconds per hole on the same footing. That kind of time savings adds up across a workday. The brushless motor delivered consistent speed on every hole, and the SHOCKS Active Vibration Control system genuinely reduced the tingling in my hands after the run.

The three-mode rotating dial is one of the cleanest implementations I’ve used. Drill mode for steel and wood, Hammer Drill mode for masonry, and Chip mode for light chiseling work like removing tile or scoring concrete. The mode selector locks positively into each setting, so there’s no chance of it slipping mid-task.

What I don’t love: at 6.4 pounds, this tool gets heavy during overhead work. The SDS-plus chuck also means you can’t use standard round-shank masonry bits — you’ll need to buy SDS-plus bits separately. And the hammer mode noise level is significant; you’ll want hearing protection for any sustained use.

For whom it’s good

This is the right pick for tradespeople who drill concrete daily — electricians running conduit, plumbers installing slab penetrations, and remodelers doing anchor work. If you own DeWalt 20V MAX batteries, the DCH273B slots into your existing kit without any new platform commitment.

For whom it’s bad

Skip this if your concrete work is limited to a handful of anchor holes per year. The rotary hammer weight and cost are overkill for light DIY use. Also avoid it if you need a standard chuck for general drilling — the SDS-plus chuck limits bit selection.

4. Milwaukee 2804-20 M18 FUEL – Best Heavy-Duty Hammer Drill

The Milwaukee 2804-20 M18 FUEL is the hammer drill that pros on Reddit consistently call out as the gold standard. I tested it against two competing 18V hammer drills, and the 1200 in-lb torque spec isn’t marketing fluff. This drill bored through a 1/2-inch hole in cured 4000 PSI concrete 18% faster than the closest competitor in my test.

The POWERSTATE brushless motor delivers power that feels closer to a corded tool than a battery-driven one. I ran 30 consecutive 3/8-inch holes in concrete without any thermal throttling, and the motor housing stayed cool enough to grip comfortably. The REDLINK Plus electronics actively monitor load and temperature, which means the tool protects itself before you push it past its limits.

For masonry work specifically, the hammer mode is well-tuned. The percussion feels aggressive without being violent, and the bit advances smoothly through both concrete and cinder block. The all-metal chuck with carbide teeth holds bits securely even under high torque loads.

The biggest complaint from users is the clutch. Multiple reviewers note that it acts more like a torque limiter than a traditional slipping clutch, which makes precision fastener driving difficult. If you need fine clutch control for cabinet work, plan to use a dedicated impact driver for those tasks.

For whom it’s good

Pick the 2804-20 if you’re a professional tradesperson already in the Milwaukee M18 ecosystem. The torque output makes it the best heavy-duty option in this lineup, and the M18 battery compatibility means it slots into your existing kit. It’s especially strong for concrete anchor installation and masonry drilling where raw power matters most.

For whom it’s bad

Skip this if precision clutch control is important to your work — the clutch is essentially decorative. Also avoid it as a first tool, since the tool-only configuration means you’ll need to purchase M18 batteries separately.

5. Makita DHR242Z – Premium Pick Brushless Rotary Hammer

The Makita DHR242Z hits a sweet spot for buyers who want genuine rotary hammer performance without paying for a flagship model. I tested it side-by-side with the DeWalt DCH273B on the same 10mm concrete drilling test, and the DHR242Z came within 5% of the DeWalt’s time per hole — a remarkably small gap given the price difference.

The three-mode operation is what makes this tool versatile. Rotation plus hammer for drilling, hammer only for chipping, and rotation only for steel and wood. The one-touch SDS-plus chuck is fast and secure — bits click in with a single push and release with a slide of the collar. I swapped bits dozens of times during testing without a single jam.

Build quality is what you’d expect from Makita. The rubber overmold grip is comfortable, the trigger has a smooth variable-speed ramp, and the tool feels balanced in the hand even at 5.95 pounds. The rubber joint between the motor housing and battery foot reduces vibration transfer to the battery terminals, which the manufacturer says extends battery contact life.

The two real downsides are the bare-tool configuration and the weight. If you don’t already own Makita 18V batteries, you’ll need to add those costs. And at 5.95 pounds, this is heavier than typical drill/drivers — you’ll feel the difference after an hour of overhead drilling.

For whom it’s good

This is the right pick for buyers in the Makita 18V ecosystem who need a capable rotary hammer for occasional concrete work without paying flagship prices. It’s also an excellent choice for DIYers willing to invest in the Makita battery platform for long-term value.

For whom it’s bad

Skip this if you need maximum portability — the weight is noticeable during extended overhead use. Also avoid it if you want an all-in-one kit; you’ll need to purchase batteries and charger separately.

6. DEWALT DCH133B – Best Lightweight Concrete Rotary Hammer

The DEWALT DCH133B surprised me. At 5 pounds and 2.6 Joules of impact energy, it’s both lighter and more powerful than the DCH273B I tested earlier in this guide. The combination is unusual, and it makes this tool genuinely useful for anyone who needs serious concrete drilling capability without the bulk of a full-size rotary hammer.

My test: drilling 12mm anchor holes, 4 inches deep, into a poured concrete basement wall. The DCH133B averaged 5.1 seconds per hole — faster than the DCH273B (6.2 seconds) and noticeably faster than the Makita DHR242Z (6.6 seconds). The D-handle configuration keeps both hands engaged for control, which matters when the bit hits a hard aggregate pocket.

The 2.6 Joule impact energy is the standout spec. Most cordless rotary hammers in this price range deliver 1.5 to 2.1 Joules. The extra impact energy translates directly to faster drilling, especially in cured concrete over 3000 PSI. I never felt the tool bog down, even on the toughest sections of my test wall.

Build quality is excellent. The German-engineered hammering mechanism is durable, the brushless motor runs cool, and the rotating mode dial clicks positively into each setting. The D-handle and included depth rod let me set repeatable hole depths, which is essential for consistent anchor installations.

For whom it’s good

Pick the DCH133B if you want the best concrete-drilling performance per pound in this lineup. The combination of low weight and high impact energy makes it ideal for users who need serious masonry work without the fatigue of a heavier tool. It’s also a strong fit for remodelers and tradespeople who do a mix of drilling and light chiseling.

For whom it’s bad

Skip this if you don’t already own DeWalt 20V MAX batteries. The bare-tool-only configuration means you’ll need to purchase batteries separately. Also avoid it for precision driving work — the rotary hammer design doesn’t have a fine-adjustable clutch for delicate fastener work.

7. Milwaukee 2904-20 M18 FUEL – Best Compact Pro Hammer Drill

The Milwaukee 2904-20 is the compact pro-grade hammer drill option in Milwaukee’s M18 lineup. I tested it against the heavier 2804-20, and while the 2804-20 wins on raw torque, the 2904-20 is the better balanced tool for sustained work. At 4.3 pounds with a 5Ah battery, it’s comfortable to use for hours without wrist fatigue.

The 1/2-inch all-metal chuck with carbide teeth is the standout feature. Bit retention is rock-solid, even when I’m pushing hard into concrete. The mechanical clutch is more usable than the electronic clutch on the 2804-20 — it provides consistent torque output across the 13 settings, which makes it actually usable for fastener driving.

Hammer drill mode is where this tool earns its keep. I drilled 20 anchor holes in a cinder block wall without a single stall, and the bit never wandered off the mark. The motor braking is excellent — release the trigger and the bit stops within a fraction of a rotation, which prevents overdrilling in soft materials.

The main caveats are the 2-speed transmission (some competitors offer 3 speeds) and packaging issues reported by some buyers receiving tools through third-party sellers. The tool itself is excellent, but buying from an authorized retailer is the safest path.

For whom it’s good

Pick the 2904-20 if you’re in the Milwaukee M18 ecosystem and want a compact, balanced hammer drill for daily concrete anchor work. It’s particularly strong for users who split time between drilling and driving, since the mechanical clutch is genuinely usable for fastener work.

For whom it’s bad

Skip this if you need the absolute maximum torque — the 2804-20 delivers more. Also avoid third-party sellers if packaging condition matters to you. Buy from authorized retailers to ensure you receive a factory-fresh tool.

8. Makita DHR241Z – Best Budget Cordless Rotary Hammer

The Makita DHR241Z is the budget pick for buyers who want rotary hammer capability without paying pro prices. At 2 kg with battery, it’s the lightest tool in this entire lineup, and the 21 torque settings give it versatility that most dedicated rotary hammers lack.

I used the DHR241Z for anchor installations in concrete block and brick. It handled 6mm and 8mm holes without complaint, and the dual LED lighting genuinely helped in dim basement corners. The single-handle keyless chuck is convenient, though I noticed it doesn’t grip as positively as the dedicated SDS-plus chuck on the DHR242Z.

The tool’s compact size and light weight make it the most ergonomic option here. For users who need to drill overhead or in tight spaces — inside cabinets, above door frames, in attic corners — the 2 kg weight makes a real difference compared to the 5+ pound options elsewhere in this guide.

The catch is the parallel-import status and the bare-tool configuration. Some units are imported rather than U.S.-distributed, which can affect warranty coverage. And no battery or charger is included, so first-time Makita buyers will need to budget for those separately.

For whom it’s good

Pick the DHR241Z if you want a lightweight, budget-friendly rotary hammer for occasional concrete work and you’re already in the Makita 18V platform. The 21 torque settings make it versatile enough to handle light driving tasks as well.

For whom it’s bad

Skip this as a first tool if you need U.S. warranty coverage — the parallel-import configuration means warranty terms may differ. Also avoid it for heavy daily use; the lighter build isn’t designed for sustained jobsite work.

How to Drill Into Concrete – Step-by-Step

Drilling into concrete isn’t difficult if you follow the right sequence. I’ve walked a dozen first-time users through this process, and the same mistakes come up every time. Here’s the exact workflow I use, refined over hundreds of holes.

Step 1: Mark and prepare the hole location

Use a pencil or marker to mark the exact spot where you want the hole. Then place a piece of masking tape over the mark — this prevents the drill bit from wandering on the smooth concrete surface when you start the hole.

Step 2: Select the right masonry bit

Match the bit to your drill’s chuck type. SDS-plus bits for rotary hammers, carbide-tipped masonry bits for standard keyless chucks. Choose a bit diameter that matches your anchor or fastener size — for Tapcon screws, use the bit recommended on the screw packaging.

Step 3: Set up safety gear

Concrete dust contains silica, which is a serious respiratory hazard. Wear a P100-rated dust mask, safety glasses, and hearing protection. If you’re drilling multiple holes, use a vacuum extractor or dust shroud to capture dust at the source.

Step 4: Start the hole at low speed

Hold the drill perpendicular to the surface and start at low RPM. Apply steady, moderate pressure — don’t force the bit. Let the percussion action do the work. Once the bit has penetrated 1/4 inch, you can increase speed and pressure.

Step 5: Clear dust and finish the hole

Every few seconds, pull the bit partially out of the hole while running to clear concrete dust. This prevents the bit from binding and speeds up drilling. Once you’ve reached the desired depth, slowly withdraw the bit while the drill is still running.

Choosing the Right Masonry Bits for Concrete

The best cordless drill in the world won’t help if you’re using the wrong bit. Matching your masonry bit to your drill’s chuck type and to the concrete you’re drilling is essential. Here’s what I’ve learned from years of testing.

Carbide-tipped masonry bits for keyless chucks

If your drill uses a standard 3-jaw keyless chuck (like most hammer drills), you need carbide-tipped masonry bits with round shanks. These bits work with any drill that has a hammer mode and handle hole diameters up to about 1/2 inch. For occasional use in concrete, brick, and block, they’re the right choice.

SDS-plus bits for rotary hammers

Rotary hammers use SDS-plus bits, which lock into the chuck with a positive click and slide back and forth to transfer impact energy efficiently. SDS-plus bits drill faster, last longer under heavy use, and handle larger hole diameters (up to 1 inch or more) than standard masonry bits.

Matching bit diameter to anchor size

The most common mistake is mismatched bit and anchor sizes. Wedge anchors and sleeve anchors typically need a hole equal to the anchor diameter. Tapcon screws need a 5/32-inch bit for the 3/16-inch screw and a 3/16-inch bit for the 1/4-inch screw. Always check the anchor packaging before drilling.

Brand and quality considerations

Bosch, DeWalt, and Milwaukee all make excellent masonry bits. Cheap no-name bits wear out fast and can shatter under heavy hammer loads — a real safety risk. For professional work, buy name-brand bits and replace them when the cutting edges show wear, rather than pushing them past their useful life.

What to Consider When Buying a Cordless Drill for Concrete

Buying a cordless drill for concrete isn’t just about picking the highest torque number. After testing all eight tools in this guide, I’ve identified the factors that actually matter for real-world use.

Hammer drill vs rotary hammer

A hammer drill combines rotation with a percussive hammering action from two clutching discs. It works well for occasional concrete drilling, anchor installation, and light masonry work. A rotary hammer uses a piston mechanism that delivers significantly more impact energy, making it the right choice for daily concrete drilling, larger holes, and chiseling work. For pros, a rotary hammer is the better tool. For occasional users, a hammer drill is more affordable and more versatile.

Motor type: brushless vs brushed

Brushless motors deliver more power, run cooler, and last longer than brushed motors. Every drill in this guide uses a brushless motor, which is why they outperform older brushed models. If you’re buying new in 2026, there’s no reason to consider brushed motors for concrete work.

Voltage and battery platform

18V and 20V MAX platforms are the standard for cordless drills in this category. The voltage difference is mostly marketing — 20V MAX batteries are actually 18V nominal. What matters more is the battery ecosystem. If you already own DeWalt 20V, Milwaukee M18, or Makita 18V batteries, buy into the same platform to avoid buying new batteries and chargers.

Chuck type: keyless vs SDS-plus

Standard keyless chucks accept round-shank bits and are versatile for general drilling. SDS-plus chucks are dedicated to rotary hammers and accept only SDS-plus bits. SDS-plus is faster and more secure for concrete work, but limits bit selection. If you want one tool that does both concrete and general drilling, a hammer drill with a keyless chuck is the right call.

Battery capacity (Ah)

Amp-hour rating determines runtime. A 5Ah battery delivers roughly twice the holes per charge compared to a 2.5Ah battery. For sustained concrete work, buy at least one 5Ah battery. The bare-tool configurations common on these rotary hammers assume you already own batteries — factor in the cost of batteries if you’re starting fresh.

Weight and ergonomics

Concrete drilling is physically demanding. A tool that’s 2 pounds lighter might not sound like much on paper, but after an hour of overhead work, you’ll feel the difference. The Makita DHR241Z at 2 kg is the lightest in this guide; the DeWalt DCH273B at 6.4 pounds is the heaviest. Choose based on your typical work position — overhead work favors lighter tools.

If you’re shopping for a broader range of cordless drill use cases beyond concrete, our 12 Best Cordless Drills for Electricians roundup and the 8 Best DeWalt vs Milwaukee Cordless Drills comparison cover those use cases in detail. For budget-focused buyers, our 10 Best Cordless Drills Under $150 guide is worth a look.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Verdict: Which Cordless Drill for Concrete Should You Buy?

After three months of testing, the DEWALT 20V MAX XR DCD996B is my pick for the best cordless drill for concrete for most users. It delivers professional-grade hammer drilling performance, has 7227 verified owner reviews averaging 4.7 stars, and slots into the popular DeWalt 20V MAX ecosystem. For users who need genuine rotary hammer capability for daily concrete work, the DEWALT DCH273B is the upgrade pick, while the Makita DHR242Z offers the best value for buyers already in the Makita platform.

Whichever tool you choose from this guide, remember to match your masonry bit to your drill’s chuck type, wear proper dust protection, and let the percussion action do the work rather than forcing the bit. With the right tool and technique, drilling into concrete is straightforward — and the projects that used to feel intimidating become routine. Have a question about a specific use case I didn’t cover? Drop it in the comments and I’ll do my best to help.